桑葚花青素是天然色素，容易获得且来源低廉。然而，桑蚕丝染色织物的色彩特性受工艺条件影响较大，色域有限。本研究旨在通过优化桑葚中花青素的提取工艺和染色工艺来拓宽桑葚花青素染色真丝织物的色域。采用单因素实验和正交实验优化桑葚花青素的提取工艺。考察的因素包括料液比、提取温度、提取时间和pH值。然后将染料提取物用于丝织物的直接染色，并测量颜色特征值。通过单因素实验和正交实验对染色温度、染色时间和染浴pH值进行评价，确定桑葚花青素在真丝织物上的最佳染色工艺。我们进一步探讨了两个主要因素：染色pH值和媒染剂，以扩大色域。研究了染色织物的色域范围、色调风格、色值和色牢度。结果表明，最佳提取参数为料液比1:10（g/mL）、提取温度60℃、提取时间60min、提取pH为4。染色工艺为染色温度60℃、染色时间40分钟、染浴pH值为3。在不同染色pH值和媒染条件下，获得的色域范围为a *（−9.66至19.16），b *（−12.04至11.58）、L *（30.42至85.78）、C *（0.62至19.16）以及h°（0°至2.8°）和（5.7°至360°）。染色面料分为六大色调类别：简约精致、优雅温柔、甜美浪漫、自然质朴、尊贵大气。与Pantone颜色进行比较，确定了52种颜色，证明了国际适用性。通过改变染色pH值和媒染工艺，有效扩大了染色织物的色域范围，展示了桑葚花青素在丝绸织物染色中的广阔应用前景。此外，桑葚花青素染色的真丝织物表现出优异的抗紫外线性能和令人满意的色牢度性能。

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Study on Dyeing Properties, Color Characteristics, and Color Gamut of Mulberry Anthocyanin-Dyed Silk Fabrics

Mulberry anthocyanins are natural pigments that are readily available and sourced inexpensively. However, the color characteristics of mulberry dyed silk fabric are significantly influenced by process conditions, leading to a limited color gamut. This study aims to broaden the color gamut of mulberry anthocyanin-dyed silk fabric by optimizing both the extraction process of anthocyanins from mulberry and the dyeing process. Single-factor experiments and orthogonal experiments were used to optimize the extraction process of mulberry anthocyanins. The factors investigated include the material-to-liquid ratio, extraction temperature, extraction time, and pH value. The dye extract was then used for direct dyeing of silk fabric, and color characteristic values were measured. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dye bath pH value were evaluated using single-factor experiments and orthogonal experiments to determine the optimal dyeing process of mulberry anthocyanins on silk fabric. We further explored the two main factors: dyeing pH and mordant, to expand the color gamut. The color-gamut range, hue style, color value, and color fastness of the dyed fabrics were studied. The results indicated that the optimal extraction parameters were a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:10 (g/mL), an extraction temperature of 60 °C, an extraction time of 60 min, and an extraction pH of 4. The optimal dyeing process was a dyeing temperature of 60 °C, a dyeing time of 40 min, and a dye bath pH of 3. Under different dyeing pH and mordanting conditions, the obtained color-gamut ranges were a* (− 9.66 to 19.16), b* (− 12.04 to 11.58), L* (30.42 to 85.78), C* (0.62 to 19.16), and h° (0° to 2.8°) and (5.7° to 360°). The dyed fabrics fell into six major color-tone categories: simplicity and delicacy, elegance and gentleness, sweetness and romance, naturalness and simplicity, and dignity and grandeur. Compared with Pantone colors, 52 colors were identified, demonstrating international applicability. Through the variation of dyeing pH values and mordanting processes, the color-gamut range of dyed fabrics was effectively expanded, presenting promising applications of mulberry anthocyanins in silk-fabric dyeing. In addition, the mulberry anthocyanin-dyed silk fabric exhibited excellent UV resistance and satisfactory color-fastness properties.